I loved reading this.
Yes my target is those naughty particles too small for the sieve filter and non ferrous parts.
If I use oil till 1000 km then I guess Im not using totally trashed oil at molecular level.
Cost? Yes it is costing me extra to filter externally, but only a little bit more. STP honey like oil is surprisingly cheap here. 1 dollar a sealed can USA imported and I use a few teaspoon fulls at a time. I get 5 large filter sheets for a dollar.
If I throw away oil at every 1000km and filter externally, then its like my engine as a great oil filter attached to it. It must be loving me.
--- On Fri, 15/6/12, Mike Gladu <mgladu@mindspring.com> wrote:
From: Mike Gladu <mgladu@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: [Honda-C70] Re: Home Oil Filtering made simple (DON'T)
To: Honda-C70@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, 15 June, 2012, 19:33
At 1:02 PM +0000 6/15/12, aboard_epsilon wrote:
>I can give you one good tip ...if you buy your oil in gallons or 5 litres
>first shake the can before pouring any out.
>
>sometimes additives separate out...are either at the top or at the
>bottom of the can/container.
>
>in in effect when you pour out your measures for each oil change
>..your getting different oil make-up ..if the can hasn't been shaken.
>
>so shake that can when its new .......and each time you use some out of it .
Since we're going by the 'seat of our pants' here, how about my
personal 'take' on this oil business.
Shaking the oil can before putting it in the engine might be a waste of time.
"Additives" that sink to the bottom of an oil container had better
dissolve when engine heat is applied, otherwise the first few cycles
through the engine should remove solids and non-metallic sediment at
the filter screen and the centrifugal mechanism in the clutch.
Bits and particles of aluminum and steel should also be caught in the
filter screen (and not make it to bearing surfaces to do damage).
Once they make it to the sump, the larger lumps should sink to the
bottom where the ferrous stuff could get trapped by a magnet, but the
rest will move around on the bottom with every vibration and motion.
Whatever doesn't get trapped in the clutch endspace or on a magnet,
or mired in the sludge that forms on the bottom of the sump, sooner
or later should get chewed up by the exposed gears in the
transmission.
Filtering the oil and putting is back in doesn't do anything the
engine won't do by itself (except for the particles too small to be
caught in the screen or too light to spin out).
Filtering old oil can remove trash that's too small to be caught by
the existing system, but it doesn't do anything about the damage to
the oil chemistry from combustion and its byproducts, nor the damage
at the molecular level from passing though the gears of the
transmission.
You've removed the heavy trash, but you can't make the oil work like
it was intended after it's been used. There's no such thing as OLD
OIL that's as good or better than NEW OIL. Adding STP just dilutes
the old oil with new oil and additives.
By the time you've made the effort to remove it - why not put new oil in?
Surely a can of new oil is cheaper and easier to deal with than a
filter and additives.
Mike G.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
1970-73 C70 Honda Service Manual: http://tinyurl.com/6ebwtw
1970-73 C70 Troubleshooting Guide:
http://tinyurl.com/6ebwtw (scroll to sec.7.1 page 101.jpg)
1980-83 C70 Honda Service Manual: http://tinyurl.com/hu42c
1980-81 C70 Troubleshooting Guide:
http://tinyurl.com/hu42c (scroll to sec.18-1 page 170.jpg)
1982-83 C70 Troubleshooting Guide:
http://tinyurl.com/hu42c (scroll to sec. 20-28 page 205.jpg)
1980-81 C70 Maintenance Schedule: http://tinyurl.com/z4zn6
1982-83 C70 Maintenance Schedule: http://tinyurl.com/hw35c
More resources for C70 Passports and Cubs:
http://www.shlaes.com/Vehicles/Scooter.htm
http://www.velodrome.com/HondaC70/HondaC70.html
